December 11, 2007
Dear Dad:
Wow what a weekend we had. On Friday night David traded his car with the son of a friend who has a brand new truck so that we could transport the 90 pound pig to Puntarenas in a truck instead of inside the car with us. Thank you David and Omar.
Just like Santa Claus on the night before Christmas David and I checked and rechecked the list of things we needed to buy or take to Punta Coral for the Luau.
We both did our parts and shared ideas and re-checked each other’s lists to make sure nothing was forgotten.
When a long time passes between special tours like a Luau or a wedding, remembering everything is challenging because nothing can be forgotten and once we were at Punta Coral there would be no place to buy a needed item.
You might be scratching your head wondering what could be so different.
To cook the pig we had to have 8 kilos of banana leaves that had been cut and passed over a flame to seal the pores and make the long banana leaves more pliable. We also bought a 2 meter length of chicken wire to wrap around the pig after it is wrapped in banana leaves and a pair of welding gloves (cost $100) to lift the hot rocks and cooked pig out of the pit.
I ordered purple duodenum orchids on a stem for the vases for the tables and also ordered more wine and water glasses, 36 place settings of table ware more, plus more round and rectangular table cloths and two new tables. David also bought two small tents to place one over the fire pig where the pig was cooking and another to place over the table that we had to put on the lawn outside of the dining room because there was no more space under roof.
David also ordered gunny or coffee sacks made out of burlap but the messenger bought the wrong bags and in the end we didn’t need to use the burlap bags.
Saturday David and I drove to the office to pick up Tony and then we drove out of town to pick up Sherry. David did some maneuvering through traffic to cross the highway to the slaughter house.
The slaughter house is huge and even before entering the parking lot the unmistakable smell hits you even with the windows rolled up and air conditioning on.
I remember the smell so well. When we first bought Casa Calypso there was a slaughter house a block from the house. It was there for so long that the soccer field in front of Casa Calypso was and still is called Plaza Chanchera or Slaughterhouse Field. Gross I know.
In the night trucks would bring animals there to be slaughtered and we could hear the pigs screaming. It was not difficult for me to turn into a vegetarian. The same place would also tan the hides and that smell was always in the air. Disgusting and was even worse when I got pregnant.
David pulled the borrowed truck into the parking lot and he and Tony got out and went inside the building. Sherry and I sat in the hot car, not wanting to open a window for the same reasons I gave earlier. We could hear animals screaming and tried to ignore the horrible sound and we put our fingers in our ears. I was glad I had an empty stomach.
Soon the poor dead pig was carried out to the truck and placed inside the biggest ice chest we were able to find. The legs were sticking out and David packed ice bags around it and covered the whole thing with a big tarp.
As soon as we left the slaughter house and the pig was covered and in the back of the truck I was able to ignore it. We drove to Puntarenas and after lunch put all our gear into the waiting Captain’s Launch – the Amapola. Sherry and I waited until everything was loaded so as not to look at the 42 kilo pig while the guys carried it to the waiting boat with legs sticking out of the ice chest.
As soon as we arrived at Punta Coral, the workers there carried the beast to the front of the dining room and once again packed ice around it and covered the whole thing with a tarp, to keep it fresh and also protected from any animals that might want to come and eat it.
The fire pit, that is located between the dining area and the sea wall, had been cleaned out and along side was a pile of firewood plus a blanket with three wheel barrels of dirt and some selected rocks – some round and some partially flat.
The Punta Coral workers were in bed as soon as the sun set at about 6:00pm and the rest of us sat under the stars not wanting to go to bed as we all knew we were going to have a really big day on Sunday.
At midnight David and Tony along with Misael, Edgar and Juan Jose got up to start the fire that would heat the rocks used to cook the Luau pig.
David got up at 3:00am and checked the fire and finally got up at 5:00 to prepare the pig for cooking. I woke up to machine gun fire or that is what it sounded like to me until I realized David was chopping lots of garlic that he would put inside the cavity with salt and lemon juice and white wine.
All the guys were busy making the preparations, even little Mario had arrived two hours early for work to be part of the preparation. The testosterone was oozing from the group of guys. After the cavity was seasoned, big flat VERY HOT rocks were carefully picked up using the welder gloves and placed between the hind legs, then the pig was wrapped in layers and layers of banana leaves. The chicken wire was wrapped around and sewn closed– like a package.
The ashes had been raked out to the side of the pit and the pig was lowered into it. Sweet potatoes that had been washed and covered in aluminum foil were placed around the pig and then it was covered with meter long aluminum roofing to keep the dirt away and finally the whole thing was covered with dirt. As soon as the pit was covered the tent was placed over it as a safety reminder for the group not to walk into the pit
After the pig was safely in the pit cooking, David went to the BBQ and cooked some tuna lomos or pieces of tuna cut into foot long - closed fist sized pieces of a fresh tuna (another $100.00) that the brother of the bartender, who also supplies us with fresh fish for ceviche, was able to find and cooked it ¨black and blue¨ by searing it quickly on all sides leaving the center raw. Don’t wrinkle your nose it takes really great prepared this way and is a special treat to all who have tasted it before.
After the tuna was cooked and placed in the cooler, David and Sherry got dressed and took the Amapola (David’s captain’s launch) to Puntarenas to pick up part of the group, 12 passengers, that decided they wanted to go on the tour for the Luau, but by the time they decided they wanted to go reservations sold the last of the spaces for a tour to Tortuga Island.
Also, David chartered a tiny helicopter to take Tim, our video photographer around Punta Coral, Tortuga Island and Manta Raya to use for promotion.
In the meantime, Delfina and Leonal arrived at the Paquera Dock, after taking the ferry from Puntarenas to get a head start in preparations for the Luau. They brought with them the new bateas that Celiece and Marlon bought when they drove to the top of Cerro de los Muertos mountain (mountain of the dead named because of all the traffic accidents that happen on this dangerous stretch of road) on the main highway to Panama.
I set up the buffet tables and Edgar cut 4 Coconut Palm boughs for the tops of the two buffet tables. After I placed two beautiful sarongs for the front topped with two new white rectangular table cloths, we covered them with the palms.
I took all the bateas or wooden platters and covered them with more of the seared banana leaves and placed them on the buffet tables. It was all very tropical looking
After the table was ready I went in search of leaves, shells, coconuts etc to make a centerpiece. I used one of the new wooded bateas or trays that are cut out of one piece of wood and placed a pineapple and two conch shells that we found hiding in the plants outside the kitchen window. Then I found a dry coconut with the husk still on it and two tiny green coconuts that had fallen. I walked to one of the Christmas palms (they have sprigs of berries that turn red and look like holly berries) and cut part of a sprig of the green hard berries. Once in place I arranged some of the small purple orchids on stems and some fan tail palm in between the shells, coconuts and pineapple. It was beautiful and completed the Luau look I was looking for.
Next on my to-do list was the flower arrangements for each of the 10 dining tables. I spent a good precious ½ hour looking for the white bud vases I knew we had but could not find. Finally, after a frustrating search all over the house, I located the missing vases and proceeded to make the flower arrangements using the orchids and divided the fan tail palm leaves into strips and put three into each vase to add some color.
In the meantime, the dining tables were being set up. I thought we only had 60 chargers – the bamboo liners that the dinner plates sit on top of and I had an idea to place a fantail palm – one to table – to make up for the 12 missing chargers because I thought we didn’t have enough. Angels must have been listening because to my surprise and delight I discovered that we had a whole other case of the bamboo chargers and this was more than enough for the ten tables. I guess, but don’t remember, I had ordered some more last year for another group and forgot and instead of only 60 we have about 100. Yippee!!!!!!
We had to buy 36 new place settings of table ware and I wanted to make sure that all the table ware and wine and water glasses matched at each table. I placed a fresh hibiscus flower at each place setting between the glasses and Leonal folded the cloth napkins into a fan and placed them in the wine glasses. The tables looked set for a wedding.
We heard the helicopter flying overhead and had been told to stay inside so the photographer could take video of Punta Coral from the air without ant people in the shots.
My next job was cutting lemons for the water glasses and water pitchers. I had forgotten my allergy to the lemons and acid in the peel and almost finished cutting, my hands began to burn.
Years ago, Mario planted Persian limes in the yard. The tiny trees gave delicious perfect emerald colored limes with a delicious seedless fruit. I remember picking some during a Christmas-New Year Holiday when we had guests and burned my face with the citric acid. My eyes were swollen shut and my face was burned. I was a mess and couldn’t prepare the holiday meal. After a few days, my face dried up and a thick leather like skin formed that peeled off in one thick piece. Really, it was weird. I had never heard of a lemon causing an acid burn like the one I experienced.
This wasn’t the last time I was burned either. Another time, David and I were alone at Punta Coral and I cooked shrimp for lunch and went to pick a lemon off the now fenced in tree. Carefully not to get y face close to the tree, I carefully picked two lemons. A few hours later, the skin between my fingers began to blister and swell and my hands looked like I was holding a baseball catchers’ mitt. I was supposed to leave the country the following day on a business trip but was not able to travel. How could I talk to people with hands like these?
Celiece too burned the top of her hands and blisters formed.
This was enough and we told Mario to get rid of the dangerous trees. I wouldn’t want a small child or another person to burn themselves on the acid from the lemon fruit even though the limes were delicious. Reluctantly Mario pulled up the two trees.
As I sit here and write, I can see that once again the palms of my hands have burned the top layer of skin and are very dry and peeling. My hands feel like sandpaper even when I keep putting cream on them. Hopefully I will remember to let another person cut the lemons next time.
Punta Coral was now ready to receive the group for the Luau. We had heard the helicopter fly over head again and then a radio call that told us the Manta Raya was close.
I had just enough time to change clothes and grab the 100 shell leis to give to the guests as they got off the catamaran and headed for the giant rancho or thatched roof bar area.
For about two hours we watched the group take part in the activities sit on a lounge chair or up at the bar and party, party, party. There were pairs in the kayaks, or snorkeling and some swimmers too. The two bartenders were busy pouring drinks.
The moment arrived when it was time to dig up the pig. While the tent was removed and the dirt shoveled off, I gave a little introduction speech on the history of a Luau for the guests that were standing around the pit watching. After the steaming dirt was shoveled off, the metal roofing was removed and the steaming pig was lifted out of the pit and placed on the flat cart and wheeled it to the BBQ. Misael and David lifted the pig onto the table, the banana leaves were unwrapped and finally the pig was ready to be carved. I hid.
By this time the group was blasted and we needed to get food into their stomachs. Ceviche had been served before the pig was taken out of the ground but we needed to feed everyone more food because of all the alcohol they were drinking. Free booze is always a problem with Tico (Tico is a slang name for Costaricans- not considered a bad name) party groups they drink too much and act like idiots.
Sherry and I served the group salads, and rice and slices of tuna and pig with the sauce, cook sweet potato and a tortilla. Soon all we had left were empty serving platters.
Not everyone in the group liked the tuna, too raw for some of them, but those who had eaten it before returned more than once for more.
Even the crew took a break to eat, but I could not. I am not sure why, but when hosting a big party I cannot eat the food. It could be that when I looked at the buffet table and saw the pig’s head, my stomach shriveled up and my appetite disappeared.
We counted the minutes until Manta Raya returned to take to group back to port. All that work that went into preparing the food seem to be lost because most of the group was too drunk to notice and could not appreciate our efforts. Oh well. We felt as if Punta Coral had been invaded and we were ready to get rid of the group that didn’t seem to appreciate the special - ness of the property.
David and I have decided that we will no longer take groups that want to bring their own booze and pay a discoche charge. (discoche is a charge for serving and ice when the client brings their own liquor) We will offer open bar and charge them a lot so it will cover any damage or cleanup or make wrist bands or drink tickets to have more control.
Every year we suffer behind the Christmas parties. The bus company complains because some throw up on the seats returning to San Jose, smoke cigarettes and trash the busses.
Last week we had a group that peed in the hulls and behind the stairs on Manta Raya because they were so drunk. We have had enough.
I guess we should be thankful for the business as it is most of the business we receive the last two weeks of November and the first two weeks of December; but it is tough on everyone. International tourism is still slow and lots of agencies and some of the beach resorts are still at half capacity or less.
Sunday night we sat in lounge chairs and relaxed after the busy day. All of us were so happy that the Luau was over, the property clean, except for the public bathrooms that were a mess, and the dishes and glasses washed and put away, the tables folded and put away and the chairs stacked. To anyone looking, no one would know that we had a big party earlier.
Monday morning the sun was shining and another beautiful day began. Instead of rushing to leave, David, Sherry, Tim and I went for a nice swim in the crystal clear water in our private beach. We ate some of the left over sweet potatoes, scrambled eggs, pineapple and tortillas for breakfast and then it was time to pack up and get into David’s launch, Amapola, and head for Puntarenas.
On the way home we stopped at a favorite restaurant and had pupusas for lunch. What are pupusas? No, not baby Indians. They are a typical dish from El Salvador – made with the same masa or corn meal that is used to make tortllas and then in the center is a combination or just one filling of either grated cheese, refried beans, and chicaron – pieces of cooked pork. Needles to say, I only eat the cheese and bean pupusas. When cooked on the grill and served, the pupusas are topped with shredded cabbage and carrots, almost a sauerkraut. They are delicious.
I wish I had one now, as I have not had lunch because I am waiting to a platform truck to come and get my car. Wouldn’t you know it……I made the last payment only two months or so ago making the car mine and this is the second time it has been towed to the shop for repairs. I have no idea what is wrong, but it was vibrating this morning and when I filled it with gas the attendant told me there is oil in the water. David said that is much better than water in the oil, but it is all bad to me.
Last time the problem was an oil filter and now ……………………..?????
The phone just rang and it is the shop where I sent my car or rather where the platform truck took my car. The problems were minor and I am waiting for my car now. Yeaaaaa!!!
Thursday
This morning the sun came out and we are having a beautiful day much warmer that yesterday. It has been really cold and all of us have been wearing jackets or sweaters and I socks, to keep warm.
I passed the Nativity scene or portal like it is called here that is set up in front of the hall mirror and saw cat vomit. Yuck. Which cat? Don’t know.
David told me that he had cleaned up a mess in front of our bedroom door but I found more along side the wooden cow. I always thought that the cats were sick when I cleaned up their vomit about once a week or so; but just now I was talking to Marty, she called from Idaho, and she told me it was fur balls. ¨Fur balls?¨ I asked. I thought my cats didn’t throw up fur balls because I figured a fur ball had to look like stuff from a vacuum cleaner not a mixture of chewed cat food and blades of grass. Too much information?
Sara, the maid for the office, has been making soup every day and serving it to me. My cold is much better. It is always nice to be pampered.
Now Bryan is sick with a cold and also our web master is out too. A virus has been going around and we are falling like soldiers.
Celiece is out on another tour with a group and has the one awful person in the group that everyone hates and she tried to get her off the tour, but cannot. Celiece thinks that this woman wanted a male guide but because she has taken lots of OAT tours before she is considered to be special and Celiece cannot pull rank and get rid of her. Even the woman who is forced to share a room with the awful person had complained to Celiece.
Maybe it is a lesson for Celiece to ignore the “%$&! and just keep doing her job. It is difficult when there is someone in the crowd that makes snide remarks or fun of one of Celiece’s talks with her group.
Marlon has been working hard to train new guides for us. All our regular guides have taken jobs for groups and are multi days. We are without anyone for the 21st through New Years. We are lucky that Marlon is training new people for us.
Next low season, we will make a contract with our guides that they have to save days for Calypso in high season in order to get working days in low season so we are not left without any guides.
This weekend I will stay home and finish decorating the house. I may hang lights outside in the front – around the windows. I have not pulled out all the Christmas decorations yet either and Christmas is less than two weeks away.
I imagine that Merrill Gardens is decorated by now and looking festive for the holiday season. It is a time to be grateful for all our blessings and surround ourselves with family and friends.
I guess this is all the news for this week. I love and miss you.
Besitos, Cecs
PS.. Celiece was able to get rid of the icky woman today